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But it works wonderfully well - cold against the hot bacon, sweet against the savoury notes, juicy against two great doorsteps of crusty bread.
Its Empire State Building is the Pastrami Melt, with shreds of corned beef crammed in alongside melted cheese, spinach, mustard and pickle on a whopping, Bretzel Bakery bap.
The usual culprits - pulled pork and ham hock - do make an appearance on the menu, but The Ruby makes the most powerful statement in Oxmantown.
Blaas are a USP, delivered fresh from Walsh's Bakehouse in Waterford - home of the soft, floury bap.
I put the question to the waiter at Klaw, a crabshack-style joint injecting some much-needed oomph into Temple Bar.